Priced out of World Cup games, Mexican fans take celebrations into their own hands

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MEXICO CITY (AP) — “GOOOOOOOOOAL!”

The thunderous cry rings out over a crowd gathered in front of a television propped up on plastic tables and past a maze of vendors lining a bustling working-class neighborhood in downtown Mexico City. It echoes over fans across the Latin American nation, who roar as they watch Mexico's national team win another match in the FIFA World Cup with eyes glued to screens set up in plazas, below highway underpasses and tucked away in taco stands.

Priced out of stadium tickets to the tournament their country is hosting alongside the U.S. and Canada, many Mexicans are reclaiming the event and staging their own celebrations on the streets.

“Honestly, there’s nothing like going to the stadiums, but I prefer being here in the street. … For me it’s like watching the game from my living room,” said Esmeralda Serrato, who watched a TV in the street with dozens of neighbors. “I feel the blood rushing through my veins saying ‘This is the World Cup.’”

World Cup festivities in Mexico have generated an almost incalculable buzz as hundreds of thousands of people gather in mass celebrations in host cities including Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey following the country’s two consecutive victories.

But the street parties also come after months of scrutiny as FIFA has faced searing criticism across the globe for soaring World Cup ticket prices. In Mexico, where the average worker earns around $433 a month and soccer is considered a sport that unites people across class, the gap between who can and cannot get into games is felt acutely.

That has fueled social tensions and left many Mexicans feeling as if “it’s a party we weren’t invited to,” said Diego Merla, fiscal justice coordinator for Oxfam Mexico.

“The World Cup is built around the logic of squeezing as much value out of it as possible,” Merla said. “It’s about getting those who are willing and able to pay the absolute maximum. And that ends up excluding a lot of people.”

Earlier this year, tickets went on sale at prices ranging from $140 to $8,680, but have since skyrocketed, with some tickets to the World Cup final costing around $32,970.

In the wake of mounting criticisms, FIFA President Gianni Infantino has defended high ticket prices as fitting the U.S. market.

“You cannot go to watch in the U.S. a college game, not even speaking about a top professional game of a certain level, for less than $300,” Infantino said. “And this is the World Cup.”

For fans like Guillermo Ramírez, the solution was to take things into their own hands.

Ramírez, 49, is a native of Tepito, the working-class Mexico City neighborhood that is home to sprawling street markets packed with pirated World Cup jerseys.

Here, soccer is a symbol of resistance and local identity in an area of the city most commonly associated with crime. Nestled in the heart of the dense markets is a soccer field named after Bernardo Manolete Hernández, a renowned Mexican soccer player born in the neighborhood.

Just a block away from the field, Ramírez, wearing a bright green and white Mexico jersey, set up a TV screen and speakers on top of two plastic tables in front of his house and small corner shop before Mexico faced off against South Korea. He remembers as a young boy watching the 1986 Mexico World Cup from TVs set up by neighbors unable to get into stadiums.

“There are a lot of us who simply can’t afford to go to the stadium,” Ramírez said. “Tepito is a soccer barrio, and when there’s a match on, everyone takes out their TVs to watch, especially now during the World Cup.”

Throngs of neighbors crowd around his screen, wearing green and red lucha libre masks, cradling their kids and cracking open a beer from Ramírez’s corner shop.

When their team wins, Ramírez's neighbors and large swaths of Mexico City erupt, with tens of thousands of people flooding the streets and flocking to Mexico City's central monument, the Angel de la Independencia.

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum has also criticized the costs and said last week that FIFA leaders should reflect on their pricing decisions.

“Soccer has to be something else,” Sheinbaum said.

Sheinbaum has encouraged fans to gather in free public watch parties set up by local governments and FIFA in Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. Nearly 20 such venues dot the Mexican capital, including in lower-income areas of the city.

For one game, over 200,000 Mexican and foreign fans packed into the city's main plaza, the Zocalo, as a sea of Mexico jerseys threw crowd surfers into the air.

Armando Soriano, his wife and two children traveled from the fringes of the city to a smaller Fan Fest in a plaza just a mile from where Ramírez lives, where locals rolled up to the screen before them on motorcycles and beer, tequila and snacks were sold from plastic tubs strapped to moving carts.

To him, it felt more Mexican than the central FIFA event, he said.

“I want (my family) to be swept up in the spirit — to feel, more than anything, what it means to be Mexican, and to experience the traditions that people here live and breathe,” Soriano said.

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